So, I’m going to assume you’ve found this post, because you want to start building a DIY camper van?
Good. Let’s talk about it.
First, a confession.
It’s important to remember, that everyone who’s building a DIY campervan is going to have different requirements. If you’re looking for a step-by-step guide that you can follow from start to finish, this isn’t it.
In fact, if you find a post anywhere that promises that, you’ll be disappointed. Obviously, your van will have different requirements to other people. Your budget might be different. The level of skills you have will be different. And finally, your reasons for wanting a camper van will be different.
And, with that in mind, what works for me, might not suit you at all. So, take what helps and leave the rest. This guide is simply a process, that everyone can follow, to get to the end result you want for your build.
Where applicable, I’ll share how I did mine along the way. I started with SWB low-roof van. Nothing fancy, but it does exactly what I need it to do.
Start with the why
Before you buy even a single screw, ask yourself one question. “How will I use it?
For example, will it be used for weekends only, month-long trips, a road trip around Europe? Maybe even, just the odd cold night in a car park, while you’re working away from home?
How you answer that question, shapes everything from this point on. Whether that’s layout. How much insulation you’ll need. Your power requirements. Even how much storage you’ll need.
My wife and I use the van at weekends. We like to visit waterfalls, forests and castle ruins around the UK. So I was able to keep things simple..
I built our bed across the rear. I’ve got a simple chemical toilet with no cubicle (there’s only two of us, so privacy isn’t a big issue) and no kitchen. We generally only stay overnight, and there’s usually a chip shop nearby 🙂 . I have a 1000w inverter to power my travel kettle and small 2l air fryer if I need it, but nothing else.
When you’re building your DIY campervan, though, you might need a proper kitchen with hot water. Or a bed that folds away. Both of these are fine.
Once you’ve decided what you need, sketch it on paper first. Then you can tape the layout onto the van floor. If you need something 3D to get a better idea, make up some cardboard boxes to replicate where everything will go. Then sit in it. Lie down in it. Make a cup of tea in it, pretend.
Doing it that way, you’ll spot the problems early. Resulting in cheaper fixes.
The steps, roughly
On now to the steps.
Firstly, start with the van itself. What you want to do with it, will determine what size van you need.
- Will you need to be able to stand up inside?
- Do you want a made-up bed?
- Do you want overhead lockers?
- Do you need a separate toilet/shower room?
- Do you need cooking space, etc.?
Once you know what type of van you need, you can start looking.
When you’re going to look at a van, different makes and models have different inherent issues, so make sure you do your research first. But, there’s one basic check you need to do on any van you’re looking to buy.
Check for rust. Properly. Underneath, around the wheel arches, along the door seams. Rust can be a real villain here. But, if the rust is only on the surface, there’s usually not to much to worry about, provided you take action to make repairs early on.
If you have rust to repair, firstly strip it back properly. Then, clean it with something like methylated spirit, treat any rust you find. Then prime and suitably paint it again.
Next comes sound deadening pads on the body panels, then the insulation. I used recycled plastic bottle insulation, then reflective bubble wrap, fitted to the back of the wall panels, which are about an inch off the insulation. That small air gap does a lot of the work when it comes to reflecting heat back outside during the summer, and keeping the heat inside during the winter.
After that, always take care of the electrics. Where possible, you should run the cables through a conduit when it’s running behind the panels. If loose cables vibrate against any sharp metal, or an unnoticed screw, a fire could result.
Then, once the cables are fitted, the usual sequence is generally, flooring then wall panels and ceiling. Obviously, if you want to fit a roof vent, or an extractor fan system, do that before you fit the ceiling.
Then finally, the base furniture.
Once that’s done, you can add your finishing touches, to make it feel completely yours.
The order you do things really matters. Insulation goes in before the wiring, Wiring goes in before the wall panels. Get this bit wrong, and you’re pulling things apart again to fit an extra USB socket, or a reading lamp above the bed, etc. That’s why you always do a full plan first.
The difficulties nobody mentions
Often, condensation is the big one.
Your breath is warm and wet. The van’s metal is cold. You can guess what happens next.
I didn’t fit a vapour barrier to the van, and it’s worked for me. I have a plastic wind deflector fitted to each of the front door windows, and I just wind the windows down about an inch. That small amount of circulation makes a big enough difference, that I don’t need a full extractor fan.
Although, plenty of people building a DIY campervan do fit one. Some people add vents around the van as well. As usual, read around first. Think about your climate and how you’ll use the van.
Remembering to watch the weight is another difficulty. Some vans only have a payload of around 850KG.
Things like wooden furniture, leisure batteries, a water tank, a cupboard full of clothes, etc. adds up faster than you’d think.
Always Check your van’s payload before you get carried away. And, once you’ve finished building your DIY campervan, take it along to your local weighbridge and get it weighed!
If you should get stopped in a campervan that’s overweight between 5%-30%, the fixed penalty fine can be up to £300. Over 30% and you’ll be off to the court, and facing the possibility of an unlimited fine, and points on your licence.
Something else to remember about using an overweight van, is that the Police can, and often do, issue an immediate prohibition. This means you won’t be allowed to drive the van away, until you’ve made sufficient changes, so the weight is back to what it should legally be.
Also, if they believe the van is unstable, or difficult to control with the excess weight, you can be prosecuted for dangerous driving.
And, apart from the legal implications, if you should have an accident and the van is overweight, your insurance will be invalid.
Next on the list is budget creep. A fitting here. A cable there. Suddenly you’ve spent double the amount you first planned for. Again, good planning first, really helps with this.
And finally there’s the problem with finding space for everything. Every inch fights for a job. And unfortunately, something always has to lose.
Building a DIY campervan is a game of compromises. It’s up to you to work out what’s most important, for your build.
Power, plainly
Fitting the electrical system always puts people off. Don’t let it.
12v electrics isn’t difficult, provided you start with that old favourite… planning.
My electrics are fairly simple. I run two 130Ah batteries on a split charger. For heat, a 12v electric blanket. It sips power compared to a heater. I’ve also got a switch panel with a twin USB, a cigarette lighter socket and a battery voltage gauge on it.
That’s all i need, so the fitting was simple. Yours might be very different.
Whatever you choose to add, do the sums first, so you know you’re providing enough power to your build. Multiply Watts, times hours for everything you’ll use. It’s boring maths, but it’ll save you from a flat battery in the morning.
There are a few things that are best left to professionals if you’re not sure. Gas systems. Mains hook-ups, etc. Anything where a mistake could hurt someone. There’s absolutely no shame in getting a professional in.
The skills you’ll lean on
You won’t need all of them at once. And I’m sure you’ll pick them up as you go.
Carpentry. Measuring twice, cutting once. And, cardboard templates are your friend 🙂 .
Basic electrics. Wiring, fuses, and sometime being able to read a diagram without panicking.
Some metalwork. Drilling through the body, for vents and windows, etc. And, sealing every hole you make.
A touch of plumbing, if you want a sink, or a shower.
And problem-solving. That’s the big one. Things rarely fit exactly as planned. Vans are full of curves and metal ribs, etc. Sometimes unexpected adjustments have to be made. And, patience helps most of all.
The bit I didn’t expect
For me, the build itself was calming.
There’s a reason for that. Making things with your hands tends to lower stress. Psychologists talk about flow, that state where the hours drift by and your head goes quiet. Sanding a cupboard panel can do it. So can routing a cable, or painting a door.
I’d come in from the van after a few hours feeling lighter. Not because of progress. But, because of the doing.
So don’t rush it. Work in short sessions. then put the kettle on, and just listen to the birds now and again.
The van will wait, and the process should be enjoyable, not stressful.
A finished build is lovely. But the weeks of tinkering, the small wins, the quiet focus? That’s part of the experience. And, if you didn’t want to have an experience, then maybe you just buy a van prebuilt?
So, Start slowly and get your planning right. Always measure twice. And don’t be afraid to ask for help where you need it.
Then go and find somewhere beautiful to park it and begin enjoying your time away from the stress.
Take the slow road.
